Aquarium
In the Aquarium
Discus are shy and generally peaceful aquarium inhabitants.They are sensitive to stress and disturbance or lack of protection. The best cohabitants may be angelfish (although some aquarists claim that keeping them together with angelfish will introduce parasites and/or diseases) and small characides like tetras. Uaru species are also suggested cohabitants for discus. It is noteworthy, however, that small fish may be intimidated or eaten by the discus. Catfish with sucker mouths are less than ideal cohabitants for discus since they sometimes attach themselves on the sides of discus and eat their mucus membranes.
Many aquarists consider discus to be finicky and not particularly hardy. They often become susceptible to disease and die if not kept in optimal conditions.
Aquarium water chemistry
Aquariums for discus should be kept within a temperature range of 26-31 C ( 82-86 F); a temperature of 29 C (84 F) is thought ideal for adults. Babies and young fish should be maintained at 31 C (86 F) degrees. The water should be very soft and acidic; a pH of 5.5 - 6.5 is considered good for wild caught discus. Captive bred fish adapt very well to harder water and to pH up to 7.2, except when attempting to breed, in which case soft and acidic is best. VERY clean water with frequent large volume water changes is necessary for the health of these fish. Allow approximately 40 litres (10 gallons) of water in the tank per each adult fish.
New fish should be quarantined for a minimum of 4-6 weeks in a separate room, separate tank, and separate water changing equipment to eliminate the possibility of bringing in an infection to established fish. Water quality must be very high, as discus do not tolerate pollution of any sort very well. A good tank will be equipped with a high capacity biological filter and be fully cycled (which usually takes a month or more.)
Ammonia and nitrites should be kept at 0 ppm. Nitrates should also be kept as low as possible. Weekly water changes are important, except in the case of a very heavily planted tank with high nitrogen compound grounding capacity and a very small biological load.
Feeding
Feeding discus is sometimes a challenge. They have no unique nutritional requirements; they can be raised on just about any high-protein fish food. However, discus are often extremely cautious about new foods; it is not unusual for them to go for weeks without food before accepting a new type of food. (Therefore, when purchasing discus it is a good idea to ask what they are being fed.) After starving for a month discus will almost always accept a new food, but this may stunt the growth of younger fish.
It is not advisable to use the starving method for weening discus off of one food for another. Instead, mix the new food with the discus' preferred food. Over time, the discus will begin to accept the new food, and the old can be removed. Beef heart is often fed to discus in order to promote good colouration and quick growth. However, concern over the long-term consequences of feeding discus a diet high in mammalian protein has prompted some hobbyists to switch their discus to a diet of krill, a shrimp-like crustacean.
Discus Food Mixtures
1kg Prawn meat + 500g Scallops with Roe + 500g BABY spinach Litely boiled(until soft) + 1/2 Lg Bright coloured capsicum + 2-3 pelled large carrots (litely boiled) + 10-15 cubes misis/brine shrimp + 150g Spirulina powder + add some vitamins ---
3.5 kilograms of cleaned beef heart with all sinus and fat removed + 1 kilogram of beef liver with sinew removed + 2 kilograms of scallops with roe on + 1 kilogram of fresh prawn meat. + 1/2 cup lecithin + 1 cup of wheat germ + 100 grams of Spirulina powder + 1 table spoon calcium lactate (not a necessary ingredient to add and very hard to find!) + 4 cups of blanched and very finely diced baby spinach.
Lighting
Discus prefer low lighting. They are often skittish in the home aquarium, so low lighting together with profuse aquatic vegetation may help them to feel more comfortable in their environment.